Free ascent in a day

(The story was written by Siebe Vanhee) On the 19th of August, Sébastien and I teamed up for a common goal we had. We aimed to climb “Rayu” in a one day push ground up push, first day on the route. “Rayu”, on the south face of Peña Santa (2596m), is opened...

Sebastien Berthe on flashing Le Voyage, E10 7a

Rhino pro athlete Sébastien Berthe flashed Le Voyage (8b+/E10) in Annot, considered as one of the hardest trad routes in France in April 2023. And below is his note: I thought about trying this route since the first time I saw info from Jame Pearson doing the...

Retooled

After returning to climbing, being fortunate to set a few firsts, speed records, and growing the adaptive knowledge I was learning, I felt a bit lost as to what I wanted my life to look like going forward. Winning comps and doing routes first as an adaptive climber...

Fontainebleau

My first time visiting Fontainebleau I was that totally clueless American who knew nothing about bouldering in Europe. Actually, I had spent less than a half dozen days bouldering on actual rock and was on my way from Paris to Ceuse to go sport climbing. Since...

Rocklands

There’s a well-trodden path that climbers take every year searching for good conditions: south in the winter to Red Rocks or Hueco, and north to Wyoming, Squamish or the high Sierras in the summer. For the past few years, I’ve joined the annual summer migration of...

Tactics for Winter Climbing at Smith Rock

Many Oregon climbers choose to leave the state during the winter months in search of pleasant temperatures and consistently dry weather. Some head to Red Rocks or Joshua Tree, while others go as far as Hueco and beyond. While these are all worthy winter destinations,...
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